The city of Bursa lies within a wide river valley, guarded to the north and south by mountains. The city itself is nestled against the imposing Uludağ (oo-loo-dah), a goliath of rock towering 2,543m above the city. In the summer, the mountain is a popular camping and trekking destination; in the winter it is a skier’s paradise, with numerous ski resorts and slopes to master.
Uludağ is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, and is one of the best birding sites in Bursa. The slopes of the mountain are covered with dense mixed deciduous/coniferous forests, giving way to entirely coniferous as the elevation increases. As one nears the highest peak, Kartaltepe, the forests recede and boulder-strewn meadows mark the start of the alpine zone. Only the hardiest lifeforms eke out a living up here.
One of the best ways to enjoy Uludağ is to take the Teleferik, an aerial tramway that runs 8.8km from the Teferrüç station in Bursa to the Bölge Oteller station at the base of the Kartaltepe peak. The Teleferik is the second longest aerial tramway in the world currently operating, second only to the Norsjö tramway in Sweden. More information on logistics and getting to/from Uludağ at the end of the post.
The ride from between the two end stations will take approximate 22 minutes, but it is by far the most scenic way to experience Uludağ. There is a stop about halfway at Sarıalan, where campgrounds, equipment rentals, and restaurants can be found. Be sure to hold on to your ticket stub; you won’t be able to re-board the Teleferik without one!
I wanted to get out one last time to Uludağ before winter sets in. The weather has taken on a chill, and although the sun is still warm, temperatures struggle to make it above 10°C. While this is nothing compared to the winters in Canada where I first got into birding, for the local Turks this is considered quite “cold.” Many of the migrants are gone now, and only the hardy overwintering and resident birds still hang on at Uludağ.
I took a chance this past Sunday, hoping that the promised clearing skies would yield some good birds on the mountain. I wanted to track down the resident dunnocks that live around the Bölge Oteller station at the base of the Kartaltepe peak. I got off at the Sarıalan station at the halfway point; currently the Teleferik only runs from Teferrüç to Sarıalan, but dolmuşes (minibuses) are available to ferry passengers to Bölge Oteller for 3₺ ($1 USD).
The first thing I noticed when getting off the Teleferik was how quiet it was. There was a crisp wind coming from the east, and other than several bundled up Turks and a few vehicles, there was little activity. I decided to hike around the area first, using the daylight to my advantage and heading into the forests. My first birds were the sporadic flights of winter finches, mainly Eurasian siskin, that feed on the abundant cone seeds that cover the tops of the trees. There were also the occasional European serin and red crossbill, though these were the exceptions – siskins were to be the Finch of the Day!
Further into the forest led to scattered foraging flocks of coal tit. Preferring coniferous forests, these small birds are common throughout the year at Uludağ, and can often be the most common bird seen (or heard) in the forests. Watching the coal tits, a few great tits and goldcrest were also spotted. I was hoping to stumble onto a common firecrest, a close relative to the goldcrest, but once again this tiny bird proved to be elusive. Perhaps next time…
One of the big draws to Uludağ for me is the abundance of a Turkish specialty. Although Turkey doesn’t have any truly endemic bird species, the majority of the world’s population of one particular bird can only be found within it’s borders: the Krüper’s nuthatch. With very small populations in Greece and Georgia, the bulk of all Krüper’s nuthatches live within Turkey. Though small, these nuthatches can be found fairly easily around Uludağ, and can be quite vocal throughout the year.
As it was getting on in the day, I decided to hop on a dolmuş and head up to Bölge Oteller to look for the dunnock I had come all this way to find. Bölge Oteller is the ski resort area on Uludağ; it is just below the treeline and the start of the ski slopes. The wind was much stronger up here, and there was significantly less activity than in Sarıalan. Despite going through some nice looking habitat, the only things I found were more of the same: Eurasian siskins, coal tits, and Krüper’s nuthatches.
Although I never did find my sought-after dunnock, it was still nice to get out of the apartment and brave the autumn air. As winter approaches, I don’t know if I’ll get up to Uludağ again before the snows start to fall and the skiers descend in droves.
The Teferrüç station, start of the Teleferik tramway, can be reached by public transportation by taking the dolmuş marked “Teleferik” from the Yüksek İhtisas Metro station. The dolmuş will cost about 2.25₺ ($0.75 USD). A round-trip ticket for the Teleferik costs 35₺/person ($12 USD); be sure to hold on to your ticket or you will have to buy another one to get back down.
Both Sarıalan and Bölge Oteller are accessible by car. Be advised the roads are narrow and winding; in winter it is recommended to have chains on your tires. There are also dolmuşes available in downtown Bursa which will take you to the top of Uludağ, though I do not know where to pick these up or how much it costs. I do know that the dolmuşes typically do not depart until they are full, so you may be waiting around for awhile during the off-season.